![]() ![]() I also used a shim here to remove any rocking. Since the work piece weighs over 40 lbs, there’s no need to fasten it down, it will stay in place. ![]() To hold my workpiece in place, I used 150 lb mag switches to keep the work piece from moving laterally. Just plunge down until the bit makes contact. Now with the router OFF, find the lowest point on the surface of the material. This tool gives you the ability to extend all the way down to the workpiece. I used a 1 1/4″ mortising bit, but I could have used a surfacing bit just as easily. Now just cut the sides for the sled with a miter saw. Once again, exercise caution with your hands and keep them well away from the blade. Make sure when you cut the other side that you secure the waste piece in the middle with your fingers so that it doesn’t wander into the blade and cause kickback. Now run the piece across the blade until you reach the holes on either end. ** PLEASE USE CAUTION** always be aware of where your hands are with regard to the blade since you are blindly raising the blade through the work piece. Turn on your saw and slowly raise the blade up through the plywood. Use feather boards to keep constant downward and lateral pressure against the work piece.With the saw blade retracted, slide the work piece over the blade. This will serve as the beginning and end of the slot. At the drill press, drill two 1 1/2″ holes at either end of the sled bottom. Add 1/32″ to this measurement to allow just enough room to prevent binding when the router moves across the sled. ROUTER TABLE PHOTOS.pdf (2.To cut the bottom of the sled, use your router’s base to set the width of the cut. Maybe Shopsmith will get into the router sled mfg business. Cutter is a honking 2 inch diameter Whiteside 6220 "spoilboard surfacing" bit.Ī useful tool. The router itself is my trusty DeWalt DW 618. Other sleds run on ball bushings but I have found that a sliding action works OK. This bed is made by screeding plaster to get a surface that is exactly parallel to the rail plane. The white-colored bed shown in the pictures is plaster. 3 X 3 X 1/4 inch aluminum angles used for the rails. The remedy is to do a first shave, then do a final shave some weeks later. Yes, sometimes the wood will still do some more warping and cupping after the cuts. The net result, after some work, is an 8 foot long, 1-1/4 inch thick board that is a joy rather than a nightmare to fab with. ![]() I then shave the other edge by running the board against the fence. I then shave one edge by pushing the board through the saw, as guided by the bar. The result is two dead flat and parallel board faces.įor the edges, I attach a steel bar (similar to a Shopsmith "miter bar") to the board, which runs in the T-slot in my Shopsmith saw table and provides a straight reference feature. This process is repeated until a desired thickness is reached or all the high spots are shaved off. On the first pass, the high spots are partially shaved down to produce a flat working surface, then the board is flipped and the other side is shaved. My sled will hold and cut the lumber without distorting it. If it goes in warped, it will come out warped. Why not jointer and planer? Because, aside from the cost of these tools (I do not own either), a jointer will have trouble handling 8 foot lumber, and a planer will distort warped and bent lumber while cutting. I wanted dead flat, dead straight and dead parallel material to work with. I wanted a way to process relatively cheap and readily available SPF builder's lumber into un-warped, un-bent and un-bowed pieces. I decided that I had had enough aggravation trying to make decent projects from construction-grade SPF lumber. I specifically designed my sled to process lumber. Most of these are used to create flat table tops from tree stumps or wood burl. Youtube has numerous videos of router sleds built by others. A router sled uses a router mounted to a sliding or rolling platform to shave a flat surface on a workpiece. I recently designed and fabbed a router sled. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |